A full itinerary and guide on how to live out of your backpack for 10+ days.
Starting on Iceland’s most famous trail: Laugavegur.
Sam and I have been all over the world and hands down Iceland is -the most- uniquely beautiful landscape we have ever laid eyes on. I guarantee these two weeks will be some of the most memorable days of your life. You will hike through colorful mountains, lava fields, geothermal springs, lakes, icy river crossings, grassy plains, glaciers, and forests! In this post, I will give you an in-depth itinerary on how to make this trip happen safely, with ease, AND for under $350! (Okay… not including flights and the backpacking gear you need)
Before You Go
-Tickets -Packing -Itinerary
Yay! You are getting ready for your backpacking trip to Iceland! The number one way you can ensure an amazing trip is to be adequately prepared. This can be the difference between a great trip and a trip gone wrong. Take note that this trail is only open seasonally from June 25th-September 15th for accessibility and safety purposes and you are only allowed to camp at designated sites (there are always availabilities for tenting, you do not book in advance.)
Plane Tickets- Generally, I find that buying tickets a few months in advance gets us the best deals. I use google flights on a private browser and watch them for a few weeks. (Use a private browser to look at flights. If they see you consistently looking at the same flight they tend to raise the prices.) For reference, we flew from MSP to RKV and our tickets were $450 round trip for each of us.
Bus Tickets- Since you will be backpacking and not renting a car, you will need to take buses. There are two main companies, Trex and Reykjavik Excursions. We ended up going through Reykjavik excursions and getting their “hiking pass from Reykjavik” We hear both companies are great, so just go with the one that has the best deal. This is about $100 per person, but it gets you from your first location in Reykjavik to the beginning of the hike in Landmannalauger. Book these tickets a week or more in advance. Do not make the mistake of thinking you can book your bus tickets the day of, we did that and couldn’t catch a bus, so our start day for the hike got set back.
Packing- I have written up an in-depth packing list on a separate post. Read thoroughly and use it as a guide to make sure you are adequately prepared for your time in the Icelandic terrain.
Itinerary- Take screenshots of proper maps and this itinerary listed below before you leave.
Day 1: Reykjavik
-Airport transfer -Where to stay -What to do in town
Arriving at Reykjavik Airport (RKV) If your flight arrives after 7am (which it most likely will) then upon arrival at RKV you will not be able to make the one bus that takes you to the beginning of the hike (Landmannalauger.) So you will need to spend the night in Reykjavik at their Campsite Hostel. Of course, you could book an Airbnb or hotel, but they are not cheap. Plus you already have all your backpacking gear, so it’s a great opportunity to test everything out (tent/stove/etc) one last time before heading into the mountains.
Airport Transfer- After going through customs, head straight to the baggage claim area and you will find bus ticketing booths. There are three different companies all lined up side by side. Again, it doesn’t matter which company you take, just find the best deal. (These do not need to be booked in advance as there are many buses.) Make sure you let them know you are booking from the airport all the way to the Reykjavik Campsite Hostel, otherwise it just takes you to the bus station in Reykjavik. If you feel up to it, you could be like us and save about $20 by just going to the bus station and walking to the hostel, which was about 30 minutes, mostly flat.
NOTE: If you have T-Mobile then you will have free internet access the whole time. If you do not, then please screenshot/download walking directions from Reykjavik Bus Station to Reykjavik Campsite Hostel so you can easily find your way.
Arriving at/Booking Reykjavik Campsite Hostel- This hostel does not need to be booked in advance because it has room for 300 tents. So they always have space. Make sure that you book it online though because you will save 10%. When you get there, make sure to check in at the front desk. The office is open from 4pm-9pm and they will provide you with a little sticker to put on your tent showing that you paid. If you arrive before the office is open, it's really relaxed so you can set your tent up wherever you want, get comfy, maybe make some food in the kitchen area or relax in your tent. You will get an email with a code that gives you access to hot showers, the dining hall, the kitchen, and the restrooms. Depending on what time you arrive and your energy levels after traveling, you can go explore Reykjavik for the rest of the day/night. We opted out of that because we were tired and wanted to rest before starting our big hike. However, there is one important step you can not forget to do while in Reykjavik. You need to buy butane tanks for your stove in order to cook your food out on the trails. Go to the gas station down the street called N1. They have butane tanks that match with MSR and Jetboil adapters. Also, go across the street to the grocery store and you will find really yummy packs of cookies for only 90 cents. (Junk food isn’t my favorite, but lightweight cookies are a treat when you are out on the trails hiking 8 hours a day!) When you get back to your campsite, make sure your tank(s) screws on and works properly with your backpacking stove. Then maybe relax in the heated buildings they have, take a hot shower, and get some rest for the next day which will consist of a long bus ride and lots of hiking! (well depends on the weather and if you want to hike that first day or spend it at the first campsite)
Day 2: Landmannalaugar
-Bus ride -Hot Springs -To hike or to camp?
Bus ride- The bus you booked will pick you up from the hostel. For Reykjavik Excursions, online it says that the bus leaves at 9am, but that is from the bus station. So they picked up from the hostel around 8:30am. You do not want to miss this bus. Get up early, eat some food, and be at the bus stop with ample time to spare.
NOTE: Other companies may have different pickup times and Reykjavik Excursions could change. So please make sure you are checking current and accurate pickup times.
This bus ride is about four and a half hours, meaning that you will arrive mid-day giving you the option to either stay and camp or start right away on the hike. Here’s what I recommend-
Arriving at Landmannalaugar- Everything is weather dependent. When you get there, before making any decisions, go to the lodge and ask the campsite wardens about the weather because there are three main scenarios of what can happen.
1. If the weather is good both days, then you can choose to stay, enjoy the hot springs, maybe take a day hike, and then start the trail the next day.
2. If the weather is bad (rainy) then same as number 1^ You can start or stay, won’t make a difference.
3. If the weather is good that day and going to be bad the next, start the hike right away. This is a very beautiful part of the trail, some people even say it is their favorite, so you will want as much visibility as possible. When we arrived it was a beautiful sunny (but cold, it’s always cold) day. The warden said that the next day was going to rain so instead of setting up camp and enjoying the hot springs we automatically started our trek. For the sake of the itinerary though, I will start this first day off by staying the night in Landmannalaugar.
Setting up camp- This campsite is not very well protected and the ground is hard to drive in steaks. Many people use rocks instead to spread out their rain fly. Get your tent set up and establish where you will be for the evening then go to the warden's office and pay your nightly fee (around $15 per person per night.)
NOTE: All designated campsites have bathrooms and clean water.
Exploring- You can relax in the hot springs and around camp if you would like or you can take a day hike up into the mountains to get beautiful views.
NOTE: You will be climbing and seeing the colorful mountains the whole next day when you start the hike, so I personally recommend chilling in the hot springs and saving energy for the next day.
Day 3: Landmannalaugar - Hrafntinnusker
7.45 Miles
1,541 feet elevation gain.
Uphill, geothermal hot springs, colorful Mountains, goats, streams, snow.
Although it is only 7.4 miles, this first day can be a bit intense. It is all elevation gain up into the colorful mountains. You will pass by many geothermal hot springs, maybe run into some goats, and eventually encounter snow. You will hike in the snow for the last part and once you see a memorial for an Israeli hiker who passed from hypothermia, you will know you are close to the next campsite. This campsite, Hrafntinnusker, is the highest elevation you will camp at, so, therefore, the coldest! Some people will skip this campsite and head onto the next one because nights here can get into the 20s (Fahrenheit.) However, in order to get to the next campsite, you need to hike another 7.4 miles, which is a total of almost 15 miles in one day, so for some people that is not ideal or feasible. You will be fine camping here, just make sure you have the proper clothing and gear that is recommended to stay safe and warm. As for all the campsites, go to the warden’s office and make sure you pay for your night’s stay and get your sticker for your tent.
NOTE: This campsite has little protection. There are mini rock walls that have been built, so make sure to set up camp in one of those so the wind does not break your tent and you can be as protected as possible.
Day 4: Hrafntinnusker - Alftavatn 7.45 miles
1,607 feet elevation decrease
Up and down, snow, view of valley and lake…
On this day you will pack up and make your way down the cold mountain to the beautiful Lake, named Alftavatn. Midway through you will come upon a ridge that gives stunning views of the valley and lake below (you can even see the campsite.) It can get pretty windy up here, but weather permiting, this is a nice spot to stop and have some lunch. When you are ready, hike down the ridge via switchbacks being very careful not to trip on loose gravel. When you make it to flat ground then you aren’t far from the campground. When you set up camp here, you can either be away from the lake by a wall where you are protected from the wind or (weather permitting) you can set up right in front of the lake. It was a bit windy when we were there, but the view and privacy were totally worth it. Here you can take some day hikes if you made it early, or you can just chill.
Day 5: Alftavatn - Emstrur
9.3 miles
131 feet elevation decrease
Flatt, vibrant green, mossy mountains, ice cold river crossing, lava fields, black sand…
Although this day is over 9 miles, it is a nice breather because it is almost all flat with stunning views. The only challenge is a river crossing that is freezing cold and fairly deep. (Follow the packing guide and bring some water-type shoes!) There are multiple places where it looks like you can cross, but the safest part is upriver a bit to the left of the trail. You will see a spot where there is a little “island” in the middle. Cross to that island first (it is very shallow) and the next crossing is deeper. My husband is 6 foot 4 and the water was above his knees. I am 5 foot and 4 so he carried me, otherwise, I would have needed to take off my pants (which btw is totally normal, I saw people taking their pants off to cross the rivers)
NOTE: The water is moving fast. Unbuckle your backpack so that in the unlikely event that you slip or fall in, you won’t be connected. I know I have already said this, but the water is painfully cold. Mentally prepare, but do not let this discourage or frighten you! Your feet are going to be very hot and swollen from hiking so much over the past three days, so the water will feel even more painful on them. Despite the pain, afterward, it feels amazing and helps with the swelling of your feet. Lastly, make sure to bring your lightweight backpacking towel to dry them afterward :)
Keep hiking on the path and following the signs for “Emstrur” through lava fields and black sand. It stays pretty flat and then coming over a ridge you will see the Emstrur campsite.
This campsite is so beautiful we chose to stay here for two nights! (it is my favorite one on the hike) When you get here set up wherever you want in the designated zone and depending on how you are feeling, you can do some day hiking around or make dinner and pass out.
Day 5: Extra Day at Emstrur
Day hike, canyons, relax..
You can move on if you would like to make your trip shorter, but if you do have extra time you can keep your tent set up and stay an extra day to explore the canyon. We spent the day hiking around different sides of the canyon and taking in the views.
Day 6: Emstrur - Porsmork
9.3 miles 984 feet elevation gain
Forest, mountains, glaciers views, sheep, river crossing, fields…
This day is fairly mellow. You start by walking towards the canyon and then crossing it via a bridge. Then you hike along the canyon for a while with stunning views surrounded by mountains and glaciers. Near the last leg of the trip, you will encounter another river crossing that is shallow enough to cross with your pants on. The day then ends with a little brush forest and descent into Porsmork campground.
When you make it, congrats! Porsmork is the final campsite on the famous Laugavegur trail. However this is not the end of the journey, you still need to press on to the Fimmvörðuháls Trail to end at Skogar Waterfall.
Porsmork is a large campground and main hub for people starting or ending a hike. Also, a lot of tourist buses come out here to take people on day hikes. We found a spot hidden in some trees to set up our tent for more privacy. There is a lot to do in this area and many day hikes, so we recommend staying an extra night if you feel up to it.
Day 7: Extra day at Porsmork
Day hikes, mountains, relax.
Spend an extra day here and hike the mountain you are camping right under. It has amazing panoramic views of mountains, glaciers, and the valley below.
Day 8: Porsmork - Skogar
16 miles
3,628 feet elevation gain
Uphill, uphill, uphill, snow, steep gravel decent, 20+ waterfalls, cold temparatures…
This is hands down the most intense, stunning, and rewarding day of the whole entire trip
.
Part 1 Ascending- You head out from Porsmork and hike about a mile to the trailhead in Thorsmork. You then quickly start to ascend up into the mountains. It is all uphill and fairly strenuous this whole half (8 miles) of the trail. We took it nice and slow, stopping for photos, snacks, and rest. It’s a bit deceiving because as you are climbing up one mountain looking to the top you think the other side is finally going to go down, but in reality, you have to hike right back up another, bigger mountain you couldn’t see from your angle before… It’s challenging but totally doable.
NOTE: There is one point where you are on a narrow edge of the mountain with very high winds, hold onto the chains provided for extra balance (it’s not too terrible, but just be mindful) Also you will know that you reached the halfway point and the final bit of uphill when you are at a little A-frame cabin. The rest is all downhill from there…. :)
Part 2 Descending- You just finished the hardest part of the whole hike and now after 8 days you are finally starting your last descent to the final campsite! For me, this was the most euphoric part of the hike. I got a bit of a runners high because I was so excited to be on the last leg of the trip! Not to mention, the way down is insanely beautiful! You can see the ocean in the distance and you hike all downhill alongside 26 waterfalls and a deep canyon rushing with crystal clear water. Depending on how fast you hike and how many stops you make, you may end up hiking late into the night. For us, we stopped very often for photos and video, so we hiked this last bit in the dark (although it never get’s pitch dark here in Iceland) Make sure to bring and use your headlamps. At the end of the hike there are 370 stairs you will need to descend right next to Skogar Waterfall. At the bottom there is a parking lot and next to it a grass field where you will set up your tent. Given this campsite is located in a parking lot next to vehicles and the highway, t’s not the greatest, but it’s your only option and you have a beautiful view of Skogar Waterfall.
NOTE: If you do not feel like you can handle this extra hike, you can choose to end your journey in Porsmork and your bus pass will take you back from there to the Reykjavik Campsite Hostel (or bus station) There is also an option to set up your tent at that A frame cabin I spoke of earlier, however it is extremely cold and oftentimes the weather does not permit you to stay over night. So either book the cabin a year in advance or just hike through.
This concludes the 50 mile backpacking trip from Landmannalaugar - Skogar Waterfall. Now that you are finished, you can either leave the next morning on the bus back to Reykjavik, or you can stay another night and do more hiking around the area.
This itinerary of course can be shortened or lengthened depending on your speed and time available. Though I recommend taking your time to thoroughly enjoy the journey, this could be done in 4-5 days. We decided to stay for two weeks and spent multiple nights at our favorite campgrounds.
Be sure to check out my detailed packing list here!
Laugavegur Trail (Landmannalaugar-Porsmork)
Fimmvorduhals (Porsmork-Skogar Waterfall)
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